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  • Hacker News
  • Anyone in test for the domain able to attest that formal USB compliance verification would have detected the design defect that this hack resolves?
  • Hagibis makes one that isn't a bare PCB. B0GLFGTLW9 on Amazon.com, for me today it's showing $6.99 for a 2-pack.
  • Oh, I made one of these not too long ago with those 4-pin solderable aliexpress USB-c pcbs. One side has the resisters, and I just joined them with headers. A few months ago I was looking for something just like this, but couldn’t find anything. I think a pack of 10 male and 10 female ports with CC resistors cost <$10, but I suppose this is a more elegant and accessible solution (plus, may actually pass more lines through).
  • There were some higher profile products that left this out like the original revisions of the raspberry pi 4.
  • As someone with a bunch of "USB-C" devices that do this, I'd wondered for years why nobody sold these. I recently just found them on Aliexpress in a more finished format (nice-looking case and such), so I'm hopeful they'll start to filter out into the world more. (If you're interested, do a search for "usb c resistor" and you'll find them for ~$2-$4.)
    by rufo
  • I have a fair number of badly designed / implemented usb-c devices with this problem (not all from fly-by-night companies, my Philips water flosser is a glaring example). I have a couple of small metal-enclosed male C to female C adapters (which don't have an exposed circuit board) that do the same thing as the Adafruit version.
  • I did not know this was a thing.

    I have a couple of devices that do not charge on a usb c source. I have to use a USB A - C cable on their shitty usb-c ports.

    Now that I know the probable reason I’m more annoyed.

  • I lost a good two hours the other day on an insufficiently documented device, looking for a way to flash a new firmware onto it.

    dmesg was absolutely silent about it when I plugged in or out my C-C USB cable although the device switched on when I was using a simple charger instead. I opened it up to see if there was a special switch or something to put it in firmware flashing mode, to no avail. The little documentation I had only mentioned using one of the USB port.

    In the end, out of ideas, I switched cables (even though I knew my cable was perfectly fine). As soon as I plugged in a A-C USB cables, everything worked immediately...

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